December 01, 2005
Two Months You Say
New Dehli, India
Total KM 9214
"There's an old saying in Tennessee — I know it's in Texas, probably in Tennessee — that says, fool me once, shame on — shame on you. Fool me — you can't get fooled again."
—President George W. Bush, Nashville, Tenn., Sept. 17, 2002
Watch the video of this amazing speech
October 28th, 2005 - I changed the authored on date so it will stay on the main page for longer
Today I visited the embassy for The Islamic Rebulic of Iran here in New Dehli. It was slated to open at 9:00 A.M. but the staff didn't start arriving at the massive compound until about 9:30 and I wasn't allowed in until almost 10:00. Inside the lavish visa section, and behind an inch of bullet-proof glass, the staff were playing hide-and-seek with me - they hid around the corner and I stood at the marble counter trying to get their attention in order to secure an application form. While collecting the application forms I began to ask questions concerning Iran and the tourist visa which I was applying for: how much would the visa cost?; how many photos do they need?; how long will it take to process?; why the fuck would a President make a comment so ludicrous as, oh, I don't know - "Israel should be wiped off the map!"- at a time when the country they represent needs all the friends it can get? Okay, I didn't think it wise to pose that last question so I refrained from asking it.
"I'd like to apply for a tourist visa, how long will it take to process?"
"It will take about two months."
"Excuse me? Why would it take that long?"
"Because your application must be sent to Tehran for approval by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs."
Okay, good answer
I took the forms anyways, filled them out in duplicate, and waited for the visa official to return. I was hoping to explain my situation to him and hopefully he'd see what he could do speed things up. You know, play the part of some poor kid cycling halfway around the world who can't afford to wait around in India for two months just to secure a visa. When he returned I gave him my sob story, asking for his help to do whatever possible to speed things up. He didn't even flinch. I had to switch tactics, maybe he can't give me a two month tourist visa, but I knew that he DID have the power to issue a two week transit visa which I could (hopefully) extend once in Iran. He totally denied that he was able to issue any transit visa without my application being approved by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Tehran. I didn't believe him, I am sure that I have read on the MFA website that visa staff at individual Iranian embassies around the world had the power to issue transit visa in a day or two. While remaing calm, I pressed the situation telling him that I knew he had the authority to issue me a transit visa. He steadfastly denied my accusations, then disappeared and I was left standing in the lobby staring up at some Iranian childrens show on the pair of new plasma televisions in the corners of the room.
What to do? What to do?
Try and bribe him with cigarettes? No, we're not in China anymore. Start crying? Maybe he can be rendered defensiveless from the tears of a foreigner....
What to do? What to do?
There's no way in hell I'm waiting around in India for another two months. My money is already dwindling down faster than I had planned, and holding off for two months means that I'd be cycling across Iran in the dead of winter, something that I'd rather not do.
I haven't been home to Canada in over 2 years, and even then I only spent 2 months there, I'm thinking that I may but this trip on hold for the time being and go and see my family and friends... I feel so committed to finishing this trip and I will, but just not this year.
Almost 10,000 km on a bicycle across 10 countries, I'm happy with that, I think I'll put this on hold and call it a year. I hope y'all don't hold it aginst me... How did you spend 2005?
Posted by tyler at 06:39 PM | 2 Comments
October 30, 2005
A Birthday To Remember
Dehli, India
Yesterday, on October 29th, I turned 23 years old. Yesterday was also the day that terrorists attacked Dehli. Three bombs rocked the capital of India - 2 were placed in crowded markets and the third was found on a bus. At 5:30 PM I left my hotel and began walking down the road to get a drink. I am staying in Pharganj, a congested area right next to New Dehli Train Station (one of the busiest in the country). I didn't get very far from my hotel when I witnessed a large bomb blast, no more than 100m infront of me, which stopped me in my tracks. I knew what it was but I didn't really want to believe it. I was hoping that it was just a fireworks accident (there is a large festival in a few days), but I knew it was no accident. I stood back in wonder as hundreds of people raced past me, trying to get as far away from the blast site as possible. Next, the people in the blood-stained clothing and gaping wounds came limping past me...
I'm okay, you're okay, that's all that matters. There's alot more to tell in all this but I gotta save something for the book!
An outfit linked to the Pakistani-based militant organization, Lashker-e-Taiban (LeT), has claimed responsibility for the attacks which left over 60 dead and 210 injured.
I just wanted to go and get a beer, and about two hours after the blast I finally got one. When something like this happens you cannot run and hide, for that is exactly what terrorists hope to accomplish - to instill fear in you.
Posted by tyler at 07:31 AM | 4 Comments
October 27, 2005
Please give me
New Dehli, India
"To die will be an awfully big adventure."
- Aristotle
My Pakistani visa was suprisingly easy to obtain, but ridicously expensive. It cost around $75 US, not to mention the "Letter of reccomendation" from the Canadian Embassy which cost me 1800 rupees ($1US = 45 Rupees). The fact that they are charging 1800 rupees for this little fucking piece of paper, that the American embassy is handing out for free, absolutely blew my mind. Where do they get off charging 1800 Rs to help a citizen of the country that they are representing - the daily wage of a labourer in India is around 50 rupees. Fifty rupees for a day of sweat-your-balls-off physical labour, but 1800 rupees for a single sheet of paper with my name, passport details and the words "...any help you can give him would be appreciated." It is so out of porpotion it is not even funny. Hell, the letterhead was not even embossed... Once I coughed up all that money the visa was issued in a couple of hours - too easy. I only hope my Iranian visa will come as easy, but I have my doubts on that.
Posted by tyler at 04:10 PM | 1 Comments
October 21, 2005
sex and women
Khajuraho, MP, India
Total KM 8734
"Aashiyan apna loota apn nazar ke saamne,
Ho ke beghar khada apne ghar ke saamne."
(My beautiful world crashed before my very eyes,
I stand homeless outside my own home.)
For my first week back in the saddle after a considerable time out of it, I had a very eventful 7 days. To start from the beginning - I got very ill, practically on my death bed, but I had cable TV and room service so I managed to pull through. Once that was all cleared up and I hit the pot-holed Indian roads again; I got into an accident with another bike; spent a night camping at a petrol station while 30 people peered in my tent at me; had an interview with a journalist about my trip and saw the famous "Kama Sutra" temples of Khajaraho.
I'm currently in Khajuraho, visiting the temples dating back to 1000 AD. The state of preservation that these temples are in is absolutely mind-blowing, they are near perfect. The temples are adorned with sculptures of gods, scenes from everyday life, but more than anything else - women and sex. It's sort of a Kama Sutra in stone. Khajuraho is quite isolated up on a high plateau which probably saved the sandstone "pin-up girls" from destruction unleashed by invaders. I've seen hundreds of temples and I would say that without a doubt the temples of Khajuraho are the best I have seen. Many say it's the finest temple art in the world. The level of preservation and attention to detail totally surpasses that of any other temples I have visited.
Today the "Daihy Bhaska" newspaper featured an article about me and my trip. If you get a chance (and can read Hindi), pick up a copy and enjoy the half page spread on page 6. No, it's not at the top of page 6, it's at the bottom, but you gotta start somewhere!
Posted by tyler at 05:04 PM
October 08, 2005
here it is
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India
Total KM
"Fall seven times, stand up eight."
-Japanese proverb
I got my bike back today. I couldn't believe it when I walked downstairs and the owner of my guesthouse told me that it was waiting for me at the train station. Good news! It's time to move on.
Posted by tyler at 12:52 PM | 3 Comments